Beyond Barcelona: Why Ezcaray is Spain’s Best-Kept Sustainable Secret

A significant transformation is currently taking place in the Spanish tourism sector. While record-breaking figures were reported in 2025, with nearly 97 million international arrivals contributing more than €134 billion to the national economy, traditional hotspots have become increasingly tense. Residents in cities such as Barcelona and Palma de Mallorca have held widespread public demonstrations over the last year to protest the impact of overcrowding on local housing and infrastructure. Although organisers clarified that individual travellers were not the source of this frustration, a palpable shift in sentiment has been observed.

According to industry analysts, a portion of the British market has begun to shift towards alternative North African destinations. However, for those who are still enamoured with Spanish culture but want to avoid the friction of “overtourism”, a new movement towards the “Interior” is gaining traction. Discerning travellers are now encouraged to look beyond the Mediterranean coastline for rugged, authentic landscapes in the north.

Ezcaray: A Global Benchmark for Rural Excellence

Among these emerging destinations, the village of Ezcaray has been singled out for international acclaim. High honours were recently bestowed upon this La Rioja hamlet by UN Tourism, which included the village on its prestigious list of the world’s best rural destinations. The community was specifically commended for its commitment to territorial cohesion and inclusive growth. Rather than the unchecked expansion seen in coastal resorts, a model of “shared prosperity” is practised here, ensuring that the local way of life is preserved even as visitors are welcomed.

Situated within the lush Oja Valley and framed by the foothills of the Sierra de la Demanda, Ezcaray serves as a serene alternative to the frantic pace of the major cities. It is increasingly viewed as a sanctuary where the “slow travel” philosophy is not just a marketing slogan but a lived reality.

Alpine Adventures and Natural Splendor

The geographical appeal of Ezcaray is defined by its proximity to San Lorenzo, which stands as the highest peak in the La Rioja region. Reaching an elevation of approximately $2,271\text{ meters}$ (7,451 ft), the mountain provides a dramatic backdrop for a variety of outdoor pursuits. During the winter months, the slopes of the nearby Valdezcaray resort are frequented by skiers and snowboarders, while the arrival of spring transforms the landscape into a haven for hikers and cyclists.

The Vía Verde del Oja, a scenic route following a disused railway line, is highly recommended for those seeking a gentle exploration of the valley. For more ambitious adventurers, forested trails lead to hidden waterfalls and remote neighbouring villages. Wildlife spotting and trout fishing are also popular pastimes, facilitated by the pristine alpine air and the well-preserved ecosystems of the northern peaks. Access to this wilderness is surprisingly convenient; despite its “off the beaten track” reputation, the village is located just 90 minutes from Bilbao Airport, where frequent international connections are maintained.

Architectural Heritage and the Rhythm of Local Life

The aesthetic charm of Ezcaray is rooted in its meticulously preserved architecture. Visitors are invited to wander through narrow, cobbled streets and arcaded squares that have remained largely unchanged for centuries. The Church of Santa María la Mayor stands as a focal point of the village, representing the deep historical roots of the community.

The local rhythm is dictated by the seasons and a calendar of traditional festivals. In the cafés and plazas, the “slow-paced” lifestyle is modelled by residents who continue to prioritize community spirit over commercial haste. Markets and live music events are regularly hosted, offering travellers a genuine glimpse into La Rioja’s cultural fabric. This authenticity is precisely what is being sought by modern travellers who feel alienated by the homogenized experiences found in saturated tourist zones.

A Gastronomic Epicenter in La Rioja

While wine is the most famous export of the region, the culinary identity of Ezcaray is equally formidable. The village has earned a reputation as one of the standout gastronomic destinations in Northern Spain. The local cuisine is characterized by hearty, mountain-inspired dishes that utilize seasonal ingredients harvested from the surrounding valley.

Slow-cooked meats, wild mushrooms, and locally grown vegetables form the foundation of the menu. Specifically, Patatas a la Riojana—a robust stew of potatoes and chorizo—is considered an essential culinary experience. For those with a sweeter palate, Torrijas a la Riojana (a regional variation of French toast) is frequently served as a traditional dessert.

From Pintxos to Michelin Stars

The diversity of the dining scene in Ezcaray is remarkable for a village of its size. A culture of pintxos is maintained in the local bars, where small, intricate snacks are served alongside glasses of world-class Rioja wine. Specialities such as lamb chops grilled over grapevine shoots and piquillo peppers stuffed with salt cod are highly sought after by food enthusiasts.

However, international prestige has also been brought to the village by its high-end establishments. No fewer than four Michelin-recognized restaurants are located within the village limits. Most notably, the two-starred El Portal de Echaurren is celebrated for its conceptual approach to traditional Rioja cooking. Here, classic staples like croquetas are reimagined through modern techniques, and underutilized ingredients such as game and offal are elevated to the level of fine dining. This blend of humble rural tradition and avant-garde excellence ensures that Ezcaray remains a destination of significant culinary weight.

The Sustainable Choice

As the travel industry grapples with the consequences of its own success, destinations such as Ezcaray offer a hopeful vision for the future. This La Rioja gem, which prioritises environmental stewardship, cultural integrity, and high-quality gastronomy over sheer volume, exemplifies how tourism can benefit both the visitor and the host. For those planning a trip to Spain in the coming year, heading north may provide the most authentic experience the country has to offer.

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