The Scenic Ruta de los Pantanos: A Masterpiece of Nature and Engineering in Palencia, Spain

A journey through Palencia’s northern reaches reveals a landscape characterised by the ruggedness of the Cantabrian Mountains and the tranquil expanse of vast inland seas. Known locally as the Ruta de los Pantanos (Route of the Reservoirs), this 80-kilometre stretch of road is regarded as one of Spain’s most visually appealing driving routes. The Montaña Palentina Natural Park protects the route, which features five major reservoirs that provide water and reflect the limestone peaks of the Curavacas and Espigüete.

In this corner of Castile and León, the altitude sharpens the air, and the silence is broken only by the distant call of a golden eagle. The geology changes dramatically between the golden plains of the south and these emerald heights. The “Palentine Mountain” is more than just a tourist destination; it is a sanctuary where nature reigns supreme and history is imprinted on every stone of its submerged villages and ancient hermitages.

Engineering Marvels Amidst Untamed Peaks

The journey is traditionally commenced at the Aguilar de Campoo Reservoir, the largest body of water in the province. Completed in 1963, this massive undertaking was designed to regulate the Pisuerga River and provide irrigation for the distant plains. When the water levels recede during the summer months, the haunting remains of the village of Cenera de Zalima are revealed, serving as a poignant reminder of the human cost of industrial progress. The Romanesque church of San Juan Bautista, which once stood in the valley, was meticulously dismantled and relocated to the city of Palencia to ensure its preservation for future generations.

As the route continues westward along the PP-2106 road, the Requejada Reservoir is encountered near the village of Arbejal. This reservoir is nestled within a narrower valley, where the mountains begin to close in, creating a more intimate atmosphere. Further along, the Ruesga Reservoir is reached, which is notable for its proximity to the town of Cervera de Pisuerga. This smaller lake is frequently visited by those seeking recreation, as motorized boats are prohibited, ensuring that the tranquillity of the mountain environment is never compromised.

The High Mountain Sentinels: Camporredondo and Compuerto

The western segment of the route is dominated by the Camporredondo Reservoir, which was officially inaugurated by King Alfonso XIII in 1930. The dam itself is regarded as an architectural masterpiece; it was constructed using enormous blocks of carved stone, each marked with a fleur-de-lis to honour the Bourbon monarchy. The water of the Carrión River is captured here, framed by the towering presence of the Espigüete Peak, a 2,450-metre limestone giant that is considered the “Lord of the Mountain”.

Adjacent to Camporredondo lies the Compuerto Reservoir, completed in 1960. The road between these two giants offers some of the most spectacular viewpoints in the region. One such location is the Alba de los Cardaños Viewpoint, from which the turquoise waters are seen winding through the valleys like a glacial fjord. In autumn, these forests are transformed into a riot of ochre and gold, and the echoes of the “Berrea”—the deer rutting season—are heard resonating through the oak and beech groves.

A Sanctuary for Biodiversity and Ancient Forests

The environmental value of the Montaña Palentina cannot be overstated. The park is recognized as a critical habitat for the Cantabrian Brown Bear, an endangered species that has found refuge in these dense forests. While the bears are elusive, other wildlife such as the Iberian wolf, wildcats, and Cantabrian chamois are frequently observed by patient naturalists. The region is also home to the Tejeda de Tosande, a prehistoric forest containing yew trees that are estimated to be over a thousand years old. These ancient trees, with their twisted trunks and dark foliage, are reached via a moderate hiking trail that is highly recommended for any visitor.

For those who prefer a more vertical challenge, the ascent to the Mazobre Waterfall provides a stunning perspective of the local geology. The waterfall is fed by the thaws of the Espigüete and falls over a 20-meter drop into a crystalline pool. This natural spectacle is best witnessed in the spring when the mountain snows are melting, filling the streams with a thunderous energy that symbolizes the untamed spirit of the Palentine range.

The Romanesque Legacy: Art in Stone

Complementing the natural beauty of the reservoirs is a cultural heritage that is unrivalled in Europe. The North of Palencia is famous for containing the highest concentration of Romanesque architecture on the continent. In nearly every village along the route, a mediaeval church or monastery is discovered. The Monastery of Santa María la Real in Aguilar de Campoo serves as the spiritual and cultural heart of the region, now functioning as a museum that interprets the history of the “Romanesque North”.

In the village of San Salvador de Cantamuda, a collegiate church is situated that features an iconic multi-arched belfry, a masterpiece of 12th-century craftsmanship. These structures were built with the same golden limestone found in the surrounding cliffs, creating a visual harmony between the man-made and the natural. The preservation of these sites is managed by local foundations, ensuring that the mediaeval soul of the mountains is kept alive for modern travellers.

Practical Considerations for the Modern Explorer

The Ruta de los Pantanos is accessible throughout the year, but each season provides a unique experience. In the winter, the peaks are snow-covered, necessitating the use of specialised equipment for those navigating mountain passes like Piedrasluengas. In contrast, the summer months are ideal for water-related activities at the Aguilar and Ruesga reservoirs, where swimming and kayaking are permitted in designated areas.

Local cuisine is another highlight that should not be overlooked. Hearty mountain dishes like Lechazo (roast suckling lamb) and Aguilar de Campoo’s famous biscuits provide enough sustenance for a day of exploration. The Parador de Cervera de Pisuerga is a popular choice for accommodation due to its panoramic views of the Ruesga Reservoir and the Montaña Palentina.

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